Andrew Berry Jewellery
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When making rings, save time by cutting both ends of your ring blank in one cut. Your ends will be parallel and you won't need to waste time filing the ends flush. Check out the link in my profile
With the bezel soldered in place, it's time to burr out the seat for the ruby to sit on.
A client asked us to remove the 4 claws on this diamond cluster ring and replace them with a bezel. Here I am soldering on the oval tapered bezel with all the diamonds still in place.
The finished widened eternity ring all polished and rhodium plated.
We've widened clients double row diamond half eternity ring by simply soldering on a narrow band on either side. Left the diamonds in place. Added solder to the inside of the ring and 'pulled' the solder through to the outside using the heat of the torch. Solder will always flow to the hottest area.
Let me teach you to make a silver ring twice as fast as the the books teach you. Intrigued? Link in profile. Go to watch it NOW! I will save you time and money, guaranteed.
Wondering what to do with all you little off cuts of silver? Melt them all down and pour into ingot moulds to reuse.
To help soldering a bezel or setting onto a shank we use Head &a Shank tweezers also called Swiss Tweezers. They hold everything in complete alignment whilst you solder. You could use a third hand but it's a bit more fiddly.
The extra easy way to make a cone shape. Make a tube of the correct diameter. Grab yourself a collet set. I used the upright wedding ring stretcher/reducer. Remove the reducer die and use the plunger to accurately force the tube into the collet plate. This is better than hammering it in as the plunger keeps the tube level. This can also be done on a hydraulic press.
Using a 90 degree setting burr to cut seats for gemstones.
Shaped wedding bands are as ever popular these days. This is a platinum shaped wedding band. To avoid a soldered join showing, we welded the join at the top to help with the shaping.
When a client has large knuckles and their ring just swings around on the finger, try soldering two small balls towards the bottom but inside the shank at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions. The ring can still be pushed onto the finger and the balls just take up the slack. #sizingballs
The finished welded seam of a platinum ring sizing job. File and then using progressively finer emery paper. Then it's a pre polish followed by a final super finish platinum specific polish. I use #menzerna what do you use?
A pen plater is a brilliant and quick way to rhodium a recently retipped ring head rather than use stopping off lacquer in the big plating bath. It's also ideal just for highlighting certain areas of your designs too.
Using the Knew Concepts Titanium Soldering Strips to hold a gold inlay into a band whilst soldering. These strips are brilliant as they don't absorb the heat and can be bent into any shape. Fancy buying some and want more information? This clickable link in IG bio http://www.AndrewBerry.co.uk/shop #knewconcepts #titaniumsolderingstrips