Nutriculture Grow Systems

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Nutriculture Grow Systems Wilma 4 pot dripper system ******************* NOW IN STOCK *************************** "AUTOMATIC WATERING IN POTS". IDEAL FOR A NOVICE OR EXPERT GARDENER AND WHATS MORE ITS CHEAP AS CHIPS... Can be bought as just a wilma system or as a full set up (as shown in the picture) £470.00 PRICES ON WILMA SYSTEMS AVAILABLE IN SHOP PLEASE ASK FOR VERY BEST PRICE What are the benefits of using a wilma system you ask? Well for a start they produce bigger and better yeilds than stand alone hand watering, There is reduction in nutrient loss as its a recirculating system, meaning that the nutrient solution that drains into the reservoir is re-used at the next feed.When the EC rises just empty the reservoir and refill with fresh solution. Prevents oversaturation because the run off drains into the reservoir which helps prevent root rot and less mineral build up Never miss a feed... Wilma uses a timer to drip nutrient solution into the pots at the same times every day. All in all the wilma system is a great hydroponic system that can be used in a number of ways with different growing mediums. perfect for a 1.2m square tent, these systems will impress even the most advanced growers and novice growers alike. THE TENT KIT PICTURED INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO START "GROWING YOUR OWN" 1.2 x 1.2 x 1.2 MAMMOTH LITE GROW TENT 4 POT WILMA SYSTEM (VARIOUS SIZE POTS AND RESERVOIR) WITH TIMER INCLUDED 6" RVK FAN AND RHINO PRO FILTER WITH ALU DUCT AND CLAMPS 5" RED SCORPION INLINE INTAKE FAN 1 X 600W GROWLUSH LIGHT KIT 1 X GROWING MEDIUM OF YOUR CHOICE A SET OF ATAMI A&B NUTRIENTS TO SUIT YOUR MEDIUM 1 X PLUG AND GROW 13A SEGMENT TIMER 1 X HYGROMETER ALL THIS FROM ONLY £470 ******UPGRADES AVAILABLE PLEASE ASK IN STORE**********

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HOW DOES HUMIDITY AFFECT A PLANTS GROWTH?... LET'S FIND OUT. Humidity plays a major role in plant growth, and it's effects are often underestimated or overlooked. Plants breathe through tiny openings on the undersides of their leaves called stomata. Plants can (and do) open and close their stomata under certain conditions, for example if heat becomes excessive and causes a plant to start loosing more water than it can take up, the plant will close it's stomata to slow down the water loss. hydroponic gardening tip The ideal humidity range for healthy plant growth is 50% humidity, plus or minus 10%. Unfortunately, by closing the stomata and slowing evaporation the plant also has slowed down it's cooling mechanism. This causes heat to build up in the plant tissue, and in temperature too hot the plant actually cooks itself. It is important to understand the opening and closing of the stomata and how it, in turn, controls plant transpiration. Plant transpiration is how plants breath. Plants do not have lungs, however, so when molecules of gas and water vapor are released from the stomata they tend to just hang there in the absence of any breeze. That is why it is so important to have box fans or oscillating fans in a garden to circulate the air (in addition to exhaust fans). These fans are actually like the plant's lungs, and without them the plants would have no way of moving fresh CO2 molecules into contact with their plant tissue. The plants would slowly choke on their own transpired gasses and water vapor. As water evaporates from the surfaces of leaves, the surface tension of the water molecules tend to pull the next water molecule along behind it, up through the plant's veins. Water is pulled up through the plant stem, which is pulled from the plant's roots. This creates a negative water pressure in the root zone and allows the roots to suck moisture up out of the root zone like a straw. The process of water absorbing into the plant through the roots is known as osmosis Which brings me back to humidity. Water vapor is humidity. As a plant transpires, the humidity immediately surrounding the leaves will become saturated with water vapor. Now, the entire plant transpiration cycle is controlled by evaporation. When gasses surrounding a leaf become saturated with water vapor (100% humidity), there is no place for the next molecule of water vapor to evaporate to. The end result is that water vapor is not evaporating, so water is not being drawn up from the root zone...and neither are any nutrients. If nutrients are not being taken up, than developing fruits are not getting the food they need to be healthy. This is exactly why high humidity will cause blossom end rot in fruiting tomatoes just like a Calcium deficiency. It is another reason why it is so important to keep box fans and oscillating fans in the garden area to keep the air circulating. So, evaporation controls plant transpiration. High temperatures and low humidity therefor both cause fast transpiration. Fast transpiration means your plants will be taking up and using lots of water (and nutrients). This is fine, unless you were feeding your plants strong to begin with. Your plants can only handle so much fertilizer within a specific period of time. So if you now have warm temperatures, low humidity, and fast transpiration rates you may find your plants are using a little too much fertilizer a little too quickly. Leaf tip burn is usually a sign of this. Under these circumstances you can feed your plants with a weaker nutrient solution. Or, if all other plant growth influencing factors are in their ideal ranges, you can try to maximize plant growth by adding CO2 (in which case you should experience heavy plant growth without showing any signs of stress or damage.

Everything about EC and pH using AQUA | CANNA UK

Good read on ec-ph from the guys at CANNA UK

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The life of Micro-organisms in the growing medium and the benifits involved... Micro-organisms are present everywhere; in the air, in water, on plants and in the soil. They can remain dormant for long periods in many different ways, as spores, mitochondrion (a membrane-enclosed organelle found in the cells of most organisms) or hyphae, and they can live up to several years and on a wide range of hosts. Although most people think of micro-organisms as being harmful by definition, life as we know it would not be possible without these minuscule life forms. In this article we will look at how they affect the growth of plants through their presence in the growing medium. Micro-organisms include a very broad range of species, and include bacteria, protozoa, algae and fungi. Most of these micro-organisms can multiply rapidly when the circumstances are right and they can have a major influence, both positive and negative, on the development of plants growing in the substrate. The kinds of micro-organism that appear in a given substrate will depend on a number of factors, such as the climate, the properties of the substrate, the plant species and the other organisms present in the substrate. Micro-organisms in the growing medium Micro-organisms can significantly affect the development of plants growing in the medium, both positively and negatively. Many factors are important for micro-organisms, such as the type of growing medium. Others include the amount of oxygen, the temperature of the substrate and roots, the pH level and the salinity or EC level in the growing medium. Another aspect that has quite an impact on the micro-life in the growth medium is the presence of pesticides. Peat, coco coir, rock wool or perlite One of the most important factors that influence micro-organisms is the type of growing medium available to them. The main differences can be found between organic substrates, such as coco coir, peat or soil, and inorganic substrates such as clay pebbles, perlite or rock wool. Micro-organisms that have a high saprophytic capacity (i.e. they live off dead organic matter) will do better in a substrate containing organic material such as peat or re-used substrate. But dead leaves lying on the surface of the substrate or infected plants with necrotic parts will do just as well. The amount of oxygen in the substrate determines if aerobic or anaerobic micro-organisms will develop. Most plants need oxygen around their roots, so normally aerobic organisms will be present. Plants grown in a substrate with very little oxygen will usually be weaker and pathogenic anaerobic micro-organisms can benefit from that. All organisms have an optimum growing temperature, so the temperature of the substrate and roots will affect the micro-flora around them. The average temperature and the temperature range (cold nights or a hot summer day) will determine which micro-organisms can survive, as well as the range and frequency of temperature fluctuations. Micro-organisms in the growing medium Fungus growth on tomato in rock wool cubes. Just like plants, most micro-organisms prefer an acidity level of between pH 5.5 and 5.8. High and low pH levels, as well as pH fluctuations can disturb the development of micro-flora. Still, some micro-organisms are able to grow or even flourish in extreme conditions. The salinity or EC level in the substrate will also affect the growth of the micro-organisms, and the type and composition of the salts in the growing medium also has an impact. This is especially true of salts such as Potassium chloride or Sodium chloride that can change the rhizosphere of plants and thereby the kinds of micro-life which will populate the root zone. In inorganic substrates such as rock wool, clay pebbles or perlite, most micro-life is waterborne. These micro-organisms are introduced via watering systems, air or plants and will survive as long as the moisture level is sufficiently high, even if there are only small pockets of moisture. As with soil-borne micro-organisms, these can also be either beneficial or pathogenic. Another aspect that has quite an impact on the micro-life in the growth medium is the presence of pesticides. These can build up in substrates or soils that are used for a prolonged period of time. Depending on the kind of pesticides – either herbicides, insecticides, fungicides or bactericides – these will influence the composition of microscopic life in the substrate. One thing that one can rely on is the fact that micro-organisms can adapt to a range of circumstances. A well-known example is the resistance of some bacteria against antibiotics; it only takes a fractional change in their genetic material, but the effect on the resistance can be all-important. The benefits of micro-organisms The presence of micro-organisms can have both a positive and negative impact. As such, it is not necessary or desirable to get rid of all micro-organisms. The ability of a crop to defend itself against infections depends largely (albeit not exclusively) on the presence of micro-life in the substrate. It is difficult to quantify this benefit, however, since there are numerous factors on which the micro-life depends. The defence relates to the total microbial activity, the diversity of different groups of functional actinomycetes (rod-shaped bacteria), the total population of actinomycetes and the percentage of cellulose-decomposing actinomycetes. If there is a good balance of micro-life in the substrate, there will most likely be less need to use pesticides and other measures such as steaming to sterilize the substrate, which will reduce costs. Not only are fewer and fewer pesticides actually permitted in horticulture and other applications, they are also very expensive. Plus, in a sterile substrate the most opportunistic micro-organisms will find a free space with no competitors and unlimited access to space and nutrients. These first opportunistic colonists will not necessarily be beneficial to the crop planted in the substrate. It is wiser to use the correct micro-life from the beginning to produce a healthy crop and good yield. Micro-organisms can even be used to improve the quality of reused substrates, where certain bacteria actually produce enzymes that can decompose accumulated salts. Micro-organisms in the growing medium Pythium infection on tomato roots in coco coir. Substances that are exuded from the root system like sugars, amino acids or phenols can either attract or repel micro-organisms. The position of each species in the competition game that is continually going on between the bacteria can be influenced by these root exudates. Plants can use this to its advantage by exuding substances that attract beneficial organisms, establishing a symbiosis with a particular micro-organism. A prime example is the presence of symbiotic bacteria in the root nodules of leguminous plants such as peas or beans, which convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that can be absorbed and used by the plant. Another tactic is to introduce certain benign organisms to suppress pathogens. This works as follows. Some micro-organisms are not very competitive and have a hard time colonizing a substrate that is already occupied by other micro-organisms. This can serve as a mechanism to get rid of pathogenic micro-organisms. By introducing beneficial micro-organisms such as mycorrhiza or trichoderma fungi into a clean substrate, the growing medium will become less inviting for pathogenic micro-organisms, thus protecting the plant from becoming infected. Beneficial microbes compete with pathogens for nutrients or glucose and some antagonists have their own method of winning a competitive edge. For example, the fluorescent Pseudomonas bacteria can produce proteins that transform slightly soluble iron (Fe) into iron chelate, which it can then absorb much more easily. This then deprives the Fusarium fungi of the iron it needs to grow, preventing it from developing. Competition for glucose can also cause microbiostasis which means that the spores of that pathogenic fungus germinate much more slowly due to a lack of energy from glucose. Antagonistic micro-organisms can also block one or more stages of the propagation cycle of pathogens. Pseudomonas species P. Stutzeri, for example, interrupts the formation of conidia (asexual spores of several kinds of fungi) and the formation and germination of chlamydospores (thick-walled dormant spore of several kinds of fungi), but has no effect on mycelial growth (mycelial cords are capable of transferring nutrients over long distances). Pseudomonas can also produce antibiotics, which can be another tactic to remove pathogens, while other micro-organisms produce enzymes that attack the cell walls of competing species. Antagonists that produce chitinolytic enzymes have the potential to act against pathogenic fungi. It has also been found that several antagonistic organisms or closely related species can co-operate to fight a pathogen. Other antagonists simply overwhelm a pathogenic micro-organism by multiplying more rapidly and thus depriving all the competition of resources and therefore any chance of survival. Micro-organisms in the growing medium Algea development in rock wool cubes. Pathogenic or harmful micro-organisms Micro-life in the substrate also comes in the form of soil- or water-borne pathogens. Some of these pathogens can attack over 80 different plant species and their resilience means they can be very important. There are many different harmful micro-organisms which result in a range of infections and symptoms (rotting fruits, fading, and necrosis to name but three). Some pathogens produce micro-toxins which can attack the plant or the micro-life in the substrate. Pathogens can gain an advantage over other micro-organisms when they are able to germinate faster and are able to remain dormant for a longer period when conditions are not optimal. Pathogenic and non-pathogenic species can be very closely related, which makes it hard to use antagonists or other measures. Pathogens can fight back when they are attacked by antagonists. An example is Fusarium, which can produce fusarium acid that affects the plant cells but can also suppress the production of antibiotics of Pseudomonas (this was discovered through research at Wageningen University in the Netherlands). Balance your micro-organisms Most infections by pathogens are in fact the result of a plant that was weak to begin with. Healthy plants are resilient and will be able to respond to an infection by micro-organisms. Provided the plant’s responses are quick and strong enough, it will be able to overcome such an infection. As such, ensuring an optimal climate and soil conditions for the crop is even more important than optimal growing conditions for (beneficial) micro-organisms. It is crucial to get a good balance of micro-organisms in the substrate over a prolonged period of time, yet sometimes the growth cycle of a plant is simply too short to achieve this balance. Inoculating the substrate with antagonists is possible and, although the results are not always consistent, in some cases this can have a very positive effect on plant growth and health. In some cases, the results are comparable to the effect of using chemicals like fungicides, although these results may not last throughout the entire growing season. Micro-organisms in the substrate can be a great help in suppressing plant diseases and a great deal of research is being conducted in this area of horticulture. Although this technology has still not entered the mainstream, research by the Louis Bolk Institute in the Netherlands has shown that introducing beneficial micro-organisms and or adding compost to increase the amount of micro-life can have a major effect on crop performance.

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10 TOP Tips on Gardening in Grow Tents A grow tent is a handy piece of equipment that can turn any kind of indoor space into a garden. But before you get growing in one, Grubbycup has some advice to follow to ensure your first grow tent journey is a successful one. Grow tents are a convenient way to convert an indoor space into a contained area for year-round gardening. Here are some points to ponder when planning a grow tent garden. 1. Location is Everything Select a location that can be dedicated to the tent for at least a few months. The area will require power and easy access to water, so keep those needs in mind. Make sure the electrical circuit selected can handle the demands of the equipment you wish to use, and accidents and spills happen, so avoid putting the tent over carpet or hardwood floors when possible. If the location is too obtrusive, it may become an obstacle to everyday life, but if it is too awkward to get to, it discourages frequent visits and encourages neglect. 2. Allow for Room to Grow Your indoor garden will take up more space than just the grow tent itself—you’ll need somewhere to store extra supplies and equipment. The ballast for your lighting system, a reservoir, AC unit, nutrient storage and excess grow media are just a few items you may need to allot extra space for. An organized garden takes up less space than an unorganized one, and a defined, dedicated area near the tent for items such as those mentioned above can keep garden-related clutter from spreading throughout the rest of the room. 3. Consider Using Two Tents Consider using one small and one medium tent as an alternative to a single large tent. Using more than one tent adds versatility when growing short-day plants, since one tent can be set to summer lighting and the other to fall lighting conditions to ensure continual harvests. If plants are introduced to the fall tent over a period of weeks, then the harvest will be spread out over a period of weeks. Having multiple tents also makes recovery easier if one of the tents has a catastrophic failure. 4. …Or Just One Big Tent Also consider the opposite—one large tent versus multiple smaller tents. Canopy control is easier when all plants are the same age, and the harvest can be potentially condensed to a single event. Certain growing techniques are better suited for single-tent gardening, such as nutrient film technique (NFT) or other hydroponic methods, where the plants are not easily moved. These plants generally spend their entire life cycles in the same tent and the lighting of the tent is adjusted to initiate flowering. How you plan on gardening has an impact on which tent set-up is best. There are many paths to the same destination, and there is no single “best” way to garden that applies to all circumstances. 5. Check the Quality When possible, check the quality of the tent you want to buy in person before making a selection. Check the stability and design of the frame—while it should not have to support much more weight than the shell and the light fixture, it should not appear flimsy once assembled. Look at the stitching and quality of the shell. Pay particular attention to the front zipper, as this zipper tends to be the most frequently used. From personal experience, I suggest avoiding cheaply made tents. Assembling bottom-of-the-line tents can be problematic and the difference in quality is magnified by daily use. 6. Consider Venting Options Access panels have uses that are not immediately apparent, such as for running cords, venting or irrigation plumbing, and more access options are generally better. Make sure the existing tent openings are compatible with your venting plans, although cuts can be made to modify most tents. If modifications are necessary, tarp zippers are available that you can attach before cutting the material, ensuring the zipper lines up correctly. 7. Read the Instructions When assembling the tent, allot enough time to avoid hurrying, and take enough breaks to avoid frustration. While it is possible for one person to put together a grow tent, a second set of useful hands makes the task easier. Read through the assembly instructions to form a clear picture of how it fits together before attempting construction. 8. Coordinate Lights with Tent Size Match the size of your lighting fixtures to the size of the tent and cooling ability. While an under-lit tent will under-perform, heat and related issues from too much lighting can overwhelm the tent’s cooling ability and stress, stall or even kill the plants inside. The larger the lamp used, the more cooling will be required. It is common to use a single lamp in small- to medium-sized tents. 9. Buy Some Meters The tent will partition off a section of atmosphere from the room and create a space that is more prone to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. A thermometer and humidity meter will both help indicate when additional environmental control measures are called for. Meters that track minimums and maximums will give you an idea about environmental conditions when you’re not there to observe them personally. If the humidity is too high, condensation at the top of the tent can collect and precipitate onto the fixture. High humidity also encourages mold growth. Low humidity levels encourage spider mites and plant dehydration. 10. Pick Up Some Hangers Light-duty carabiners are handy hangers when snapped over a tent’s ceiling support rods. Often found in camping sections, carabiners can be easily attached and moved, and can be used to hang meters, clipboards or lighting equipment.

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THE IMPORTANCE OF ADDING CO2 TO THE GROW ROOM... EXPLAINED Indoor gardeners are always looking for new and innovative ways to boost their yields. There is, in fact, a very simple way to maximise your yields and grow strong and healthy plants, and this is through the addition of CO2 to your grow room. But what exactly is CO2 and how does it benefit your plants? What is CO2? photosynthesis processCO2, or carbon dioxide is what we expel when breathing, and what plants use to initiate photosynthetic functions. Plants actually ‘breathe in’ CO2 in the day, but give out CO2 at night. Levels of CO2 are measured in PPM (parts per million), and ambient room levels are typically in the region of 300-400ppm. Assuming you have sufficient circulation in your grow room you should be able to achieve the atmospheric standard of 390 PPM. At this level, you should see plant growth similar to what you see in your garden. If the CO2 levels drop below 200 PPM, your plants will stop growing. It is understanding this behaviour that can really benefit your grow. If everything is being done correctly and you have a fine tuned system, then CO2 can be the one big difference in boosting your yields. Adding enhanced CO2 levels to your grow can significantly boost plant growth without having to change the way you grow. If you are looking to accelerate the grow cycles of your crops consider adding additional CO2 to your grow room. Plant growth accelerates as you increase CO2 levels up to around 1,500 PPM. Growers have observed up to a 100% increase in grow speed at 1,500 PPM. carbon dioxide The Benefits of Adding CO2 to your Grow Room The most important and obvious benefit to your plants is the significant increase in growth that will occur, especially if the potential of your set up has already been maximised. In addition to this, if levels of CO2 can be maintained around 1000-1200ppm then you will be able to run your grow room at a higher temperature. This can be incredibly important with growers constantly struggling to keep temperatures down and avoid temperature stress to your plants. CO2 During Vegetation During the vegetative growing stage adding CO2 is the biggest way you can increase the rate your plants stretch, allowing your plant to grow with a lot more vegetative grow in a much shorter space of time. CO2 During Flowering When adding CO2 to your grow room, the flowering stage is the most important. Adding CO2 to your grow room, especially in the first 2-3 weeks of flowering, can kick start flower production and boost flower size significantly. How to Add CO2 to your Grow Room exhale co2 bagUsing exhale CO2 bags are the natural and easiest way of adding CO2 to your grow room. The Exhale CO2 bag cultivates carbon dioxide 24 hours a day with no need to refill bottles or use expensive production units. They work through photosynthesis – photosynthesis is the process by which plant leafs make carbohydrates. Sunlight, carbon dioxide and water are converted into carbohydrates and oxygen by the action of chlorophyll in the chloroplasts of the plant. Plants growing indoors under artificial light often lack enough CO2 to efficiently photo-synthesise. When plants are able to maximise the process of photosynthesis, the result is larger plants with larger yields. Exhale CO2 Set up The power lies in the mycelial mass inside the vented cultivator. This mycelial mass cultivates carbon dioxide and the one-way breather patch releases CO2 continually for up to 6 months. Please note, that as CO2 is heavier than air, the exhale CO2 bag should be hung at the top of the grow room to deliver a shower of CO2 over your plants. Let your plants Breathe Naturally

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WANT THE BEST POSSIBLE RESULTS FROM YOUR GROW? "read on" TOP 10 TIPS FOR KEEPING A TIDY GROWROOM.... PROBABLY THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT THING THAT IS MISSED OUT BY GROWERS... CLEANLINESS Tidy Keeping one’s grow room clean and tidy is an essential part of overall good grow room practice, though it can be challenging, particularly for novice growers. Dirty, disorganized grows can present a range of problems that will take far longer to correct than to prevent. Keeping one’s grow room clean and tidy is an essential part of overall good grow room practice, though it can be challenging, particularly for novice growers. Dirty, disorganized grows can present a range of problems that will take far longer to correct than to prevent. Keep yourself clean and tidy! Before entering your grow room, it is highly advisable to change your clothes into a fresh set intended only for use within the room. If possible, showering is also beneficial, but is not necessarily vital. Covering long hair is advisable, and ensuring that one’s hands are clean is essential. This way, you will avoid bringing pathogens and pests (such as bacteria, fungal spores or spider-mite eggs) into your room. Keep equipment tidy Keep your plants neat and tidy, for easy access and better light coverageKeep your plants neat and tidy, for easy access and better light coverage Wherever possible, keep things off the floor. Put up shelves in an area adjacent to your room and use them for everything that can conceivably be put on a shelf— nutrients, gloves, pruning shears, and so on. Mount or hang your fans, thermo-hygrometers and whatever else needs to be in the room itself. Mount ballasts on wall brackets outside the room (to reduce heat and improve safety) and ensure cables are affixed securely. Arrange pots tidily Pots should be arranged in neat rows so that the plants are easily accessible and have equal access to light. Square pots are preferable to round, due to better utilization of space. Under-trays should always be used, as they will contain any water and soil that may drain from the pots themselves. No pooling water It is easy to allow water to form puddles and pools on the floors of your grow room, but leaving them to stand can be catastrophic for relative humidity levels and can dramatically increase the risk of mould, fungus and other pathogens forming. Ensuring that your plants are given the correct amount of water and not too much will prevent excessive drainage. If spillages occur during feeding, they should be mopped up as soon as possible. Prune plants regularly Keeping your plants tidy is a fundamental aspect of keeping your room tidy. Thus, care should be taken to ensure that plants are pruned regularly, and that dead and dying leaves are removed. Regular pruning is fundamental to good plant growth, and when done correctly can dramatically increase your yield. Removing the dead and dying leaves is general good practice as the presence of dead plant material inevitably leads to the presence of mould. Check your soil texture When growing in soil, many growers fail to follow a basic and important step by overlooking regular soil checks to ensure even drainage and aeration. Checking soil texture can provide important feedback—for example, if nutrient load is excessive, the top layers of soil may be hard and difficult to break up, and bacterial growth may begin to form. Gently breaking up the top inch or two of soil every few days by hand (or with a trowel or similar tool) will improve aeration as well as letting you know if your nutrient regime is correct. Sweep up leaves & dirt Make sure cables are kept off the floor, and away from water...Make sure cables are kept off the floor, and away from water… It is easy for leaves, soil and miscellaneous dirt to end up all over the floor of a grow room, as a result of removing dead leaves, pruning or transplanting. If this happens, it is important to sweep up, and to keep your floors generally clean. Again, the reason for this is to prevent pathogens and pests from opportunistically colonizing detritus left on the floors and ultimately infecting your plants. Keep your water supply clean! Maintaining good nutrient & water practices is essential for successfully growing consistent, high-quality cannabis, and should be part of your routine schedule. Pipes, pump and tank all need to be cleaned regularly to ensure that nutrient build-up does not occur; if it does occur, bacterial growth will inevitably follow, which will eventually block your irrigation equipment. If possible, clean the container used to mix and administer nutrient solutions after each use, and keep it separate from your main water tank, which ideally should remain sterile. Organic nutrients require particular attention, as the particles in solution are often larger than non-organic nutrients, and they are also particularly loved by bacteria. Ensure safety at all times Grow rooms can be extremely hazardous if set up incorrectly. Water, electricity and high temperatures together represent a real risk of fire and injury; thus, it is imperative that all cables are in perfect condition with no rips or tears, and that they are kept neatly bundled and affixed to walls or ceilings. Catastrophic fires can easily be started by allowing water to connect exposed cables that should be kept separate, which is another reason that water should always be wiped or mopped up if spilled. Ballasts can be wall-mounted for safety and ease of accessBallasts can be wall-mounted for safety and ease of access There are abundant opportunities to injure oneself in grow rooms, not just through electrical faults. For example, fans set up at head height can easily cause injury to the face or eyes (often when straightening up after bending to tend to a plant!), so care must be taken to avoid these and other hazards at all times. Deep-clean at the end of every cycle After each grow cycle, every inch of your room and equipment should be thoroughly cleaned if it is intended to be used again. Fans, vents, filters, dehumidifiers, AC units, pots, trays, and so on: all must be sterile if possible before being used for a new grow. The room itself should be thoroughly swept, mopped and cleaned, preferably with a mild bleach solution or a similar product designed to eliminate pathogens. Many people ignore this last and highly important step in grow room maintenance, and experience a decline in health and productivity in subsequent harvests. However, spending the extra time to intensively clean at this stage will reap its rewards, as properly-cleaned, good-quality equipment should function optimally for multiple grows.

LETS NOT FORGET ABOUT THE BENEFITS WE GET FROM USING ENZYMES IN YOUR GROW Enzymes are vital components of cell growth for all living things. They are necessary in order to maintain health. Specifically, plant enzymes are necessary in order for the plant to grow and be strong and healthy. Without sufficient enzymes a number of problems occur that weaken the plant. In any case this typically causes the plant to perform poorly and have issues concerning sufficient growth. In order to understand the best way to keep your plants healthy it is necessary that you understand what enzymes are as well as the vital role that they play in plant health. What Are Enzymes? Enzymes are an essential part of cell growth and continued health. They use amino acids and proteins which work together to develop healthy plant cells and then continue to help those cells grow as the plant matures. They are essential for the plant to grow and remain healthy. Because enzymes are essential to the development and health of plant cells, any issue that centers around the ability of the plant to produce enzymes in sufficient amounts typically means that the plant will suffer at a cellular level. This can cause plants to fail to grow as they should and may also prevent them from producing fruits and vegetables. If the problem is not addressed quickly enough the plant will likely die. How Do Enzymes Aid Growth? Enzymes aid plant growth by creating additional energy for the plant. When cells are healthy the plant is better able to produce higher amounts of energy. Moreover, the process of generating healthy cells requires energy in and of itself. When there is an abundance of energy due to sufficient enzymes, the residual energy that is left after cell creation can be utilized by the plant in other ways. In short, it requires less energy for the plant to grow big and strong. This makes it easier for the plants to grow even under some of the harshest of conditions. Therefore, making sure that there are sufficient enzymes available for the plant to use is an essential part of ensuring its continued health. Additional Benefits Of Enzymes There are many additional benefits to providing adequate enzymes for your plant. One of the most important benefits is that it creates a much stronger root system than plants which have to struggle to survive. This in turn makes the plant itself stronger when it is in distress due to weather conditions or other complications. Moreover, the overall health of the plant itself is increased when adequate enzymes are provided. Finally, additional enzymes allow the plant to absorb other nutrients much easier. This is essential to having healthy plants which are able to produce sufficient growth. Plants which are put into healthy soil should have enough enzymes from the soil itself in order to be healthy. However, if you are planting in soil that is not as rich it may be necessary to add enzymes to the soil itself through special types of fertilizers in order to ensure proper growth and development of the plant. Making sure that the soil is ready for planting will make the entire process much more effective. It is easier to deal with the problem before planting occurs rather than trying to fix it after the fact. Ensuring that the soil is rich with enzymes will help you get the most benefits from your plants for a long time to come. We would recommend trying out: CANNAZYME, SENSIZYME AND ECOTHRIVE CHARGE

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************ECOTHRIVE CHARGE NOW IN STOCK********** Soil Conditioner and Biostimulant Charge is a 100% naturally-produced potting soil enhancer that offers a wide range of biological benefits to your plants. Charge boosts and prolongs the fertility of your potting mix by adding a balance of long-lasting primary nutrients in a highly available form. Composed entirely from the droppings of beetles, this premium grade poop is packed full of beneficial microorganisms and natural plant growth catalysts. Charge will stimulate robust plant growth, improve root zone conditions and create vigorous high yielding plants. It’s also certified for use in growing organic crops by the Soil Association. Contains a well-balanced proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium with good availability and long-term supply. Promotes a healthy biological presence in the growing media, improving nutrient cycling and availability as well as improved root growth. Contains naturally occurring activators of plants’ immune response, elevating defence against bacterial and fungal diseases. Easy to apply thanks to user-friendly sandy texture. 100% Organic – Approved by the Soil Association. NPK – 3/2/3 BUY CHARGE NOW What is in Charge? Charge is comprised from just one ingredient: premium grade beetle frass. (Frass is the technical term for insect poop.) The specific insects that create Charge are the larvae of Tenebrio molitor beetles, commonly known as mealworms. Charge goes through a number of processes and tests before being packaged to ensure it’s of the highest quality and no actual insects are present. What do the beetle larvae eat? Good quality outputs come from good quality inputs! The beetle larvae that make Charge are treated to a diet of organic carrots and wheat bran. These components contain everything the beetles need for a healthy lifecycle. Additionally, this strict vegetarian additive-free diet ensures the mealworm frass is the same high quality each and every time to deliver a consistent product year round. Charge_proven_results How Does Charge Work? Charge improves plant growth in a number of ways. Firstly, Charge provides a range of macro and micro-nutrients needed for healthy plant growth. Secondly, mealworm frass is packed full of beneficial microorganisms. Laboratory tests have shown that Charge consistently contains more than 450 million colony forming units of beneficial rhizosphere bacteria per gram! These beneficial bacteria ‘charge’ the potting mix, making it more favourable for root growth and function, and vastly improve nutrient cycling and availability when growing organically. Finally, being an organic waste from insects, Charge contains derivatives of chitin, which is a modified polysaccharide found in large concentrations in the cell walls of insects. The chitinous derivatives found in Charge are able to naturally elevate the plants in-built resistance to pests and disease, as well as increase growth rates and productivity; ensuring a healthy and fruitful crop. When Should I use Charge? For best results, mix Charge into your potting mix before planting. If your growing media has a low-medium nutritional content , such as Coco Coir or straight peat, mix it at 1-2% by volume (10-20ml per L). If you use a heavily fertilised potting soil mix it at 0.5-1% by volume (5-10ml per L). See below for more application info. In the weeks after mixing into the growing media, water and feed as you would normally. Charge contains a mild kick of nutrients and will compliment your nutrient regime, not interfere with it. For continued plant health and growth improvement, top dress Charge onto the surface of the growing media every 2-4 weeks. Charge can also be mixed with water for use as growth boosting foliar spray. See below for more details. BUY CHARGE NOW Ecothirve Charge Organic Insect Frass Charge Application Rates Potting Mix Base Potting Soil/Potting Compost: Cuttings / Seedlings / Low Feeding – Mix 5ml per Litre of Soil Established Plants / High Feeding – Mix 10ml per Litre of Soil 1L of Charge treats 100-200L of potting soil. Coco Coir: Cuttings / Seedlings / Low Feeding – Mix 10ml per Litre of Soil Established Plants / High Feeding – Mix 20ml per Litre of Soil 1L of Charge treats 50-100L of coco. Suitable for use in all potting mixes including coco coir, peat and peat-free potting soils. For best results mix thoroughly with the potting substrate before planting. Follow up with top dressings every four weeks. Container Plants Top Dressing: Add 2-4ml per litre of potting mix – 1 x 20-40ml scoop per 10L pot Immediately after applying a top dressing, water the pot well. Repeat every four weeks or as the crop needs. Watering in: Add 10-20ml per litre of water Stir thoroughly for one minute. Water the pot well until run-off occurs. Repeat every two to four weeks or as the crop needs. Leave tap water to stand overnight before use or, alternately, use rain water or filtered de-chlorinated water. Outdoor Use – Soil / Raised Beds At planting or sowing: Add 50-100g per M2 (2.5-5 x 60ml scoops) Prepare the area for planting/sowing then lightly fork charge into the top 10cm (4 inches) of soil. Follow up by top dressing four to six weeks later. Established crops: Top dress 25-50g per M2 (1.25-2.5 x 60ml scoops) Evenly sprinkle the measured amount around the base of the plant and water in well. Top dressings can be repeated every four weeks during active growth. Foliar Application Add 1-2g per litre of water (0.5-1 level teaspoon) Stir thoroughly for one minute. Leave to stand for 15 minutes. Repeat once, then strain to remove sediment. Pour into a spray bottle and use with 24 hours. Leave tap water to stand overnight before use, alternately use rain water or filtered de-chlorinated water. Repeat applications every one to two weeks. Compost Tea Supplement Add 1-2g per L of compost tea brewing water. Add at the start of the brewing cycle with your usual compost and microbial stimulants. Adding Charge to your aerated compost tea will increase the microbial biomass and diversity. BUY CHARGE NOW Useful volumetric measures: 1L Charge = 350g 500ml of Charge = 175g 100ml of Charge = 35g 50ml of Charge = 17.5g 1 level teaspoon of Charge = 2g

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GROWLUSH 600W LIGHT KIT £49.99 Growlush HPS 600 Watt Light Kit Includes: Growlush HPS600 Magnetic Ballast Growlush HPS600 Globe Medium Pebble Finish Silver Batwing Reflector Gardeners and professional Growers are looking for reliable results from their HID lighting needs, look no further than a high quality and long lasting Magnetic Ballast! Its straightforward heavy duty quality and highest insulation level of Class-H. Highlight its easy operation, with headache-eliminating plug and play with 220/240-volt supply. This 600-watt HPS/MH Ballast includes a 220-240 volt power cord. Suitable for all American and European HPS and MH lamps rated at 100V 6.2A. 600W MH/HPS CE Certified, enclosed control Ballast. Metal case capacitor is used for long lasting performance. Free standing on bench with rubber feet to reduce noise and vibration when it operates. Feature one suitable output socket, making it compatible with all reflector lamp cords. Simply insert the appropriate HPS or MH 600w lamp into reflector and Plug & Play. All our magnetic ballasts are built for 10 years life with a 5 years warranty. Comes standard with a 220 – 240V power cord. The ballast is made from sturdy, powder-coated, steel housing with cooling louvers all around. SPECIFICATION AND ELECTRICAL DATA HPS_600w HPS600 Lamp Specifications: Power: 600 watts (High efficiency) Expected Life Span: 29,000 hours Lumen: 90,000 lumens Contains extra 20% more blue spectrum compared to standard HPS lamp Maintain rich red spectrum for super high lumen output Strong power to penetrate fog High output, high luminescence efficiency Fit for all standard 600 watts HPS grow light systems Better results by using Grow Lush high output 600w magnetic ballast